Open by Roger & Gallet is a classic men's fragrance that represents a style of masculine perfumery that has become increasingly uncommon. Released in 1985, Open combines bright lemon and bergamot with aromatic lavender, thyme, and sage before moving into a dry foundation of tobacco, vetiver, and patchouli. The result is fresh at first, herbal through the middle, then increasingly earthy, smoky, and masculine as it develops.
What makes Open particularly interesting is its restraint. Tobacco is a defining part of the fragrance, but this is not the sweet cherry tobacco, vanilla tobacco, or gourmand tobacco style that dominates many contemporary releases. Open treats tobacco as something dry and aromatic, surrounding it with herbs, citrus, patchouli, and vetiver. For men who appreciate traditional colognes with a confident old-school personality, Open remains a distinctive fragrance with very little resemblance to the modern blue fragrance category.
What does Open by Roger & Gallet smell like?
Open smells citrusy, aromatic, herbal, smoky, earthy, woody, and tobacco-rich.
The fragrance begins with lavender, Amalfi lemon, and bergamot. Lemon provides most of the initial brightness, while bergamot adds a softer citrus quality and lavender immediately establishes the classic aromatic masculine character.
As those brighter notes settle, thyme and sage become increasingly noticeable. These herbs are essential to Open's personality because they create a dry, almost Mediterranean aromatic quality rather than allowing the opening to become conventionally fresh or sporty.
The most memorable stage arrives in the base. Tobacco, vetiver, and patchouli take over, transforming the fragrance from bright and aromatic into something deeper and earthier. The tobacco feels dry and slightly smoky, vetiver adds grassy woody depth, and patchouli reinforces the darker earthy character. South Beach Perfumes similarly describes Open as developing from citrus and herbs into a smoky tobacco, patchouli, and vetiver finish.
What are the top, heart, and base notes of Open by Roger & Gallet?
Open by Roger & Gallet was released in 1985.
Top Notes: Lavender, Amalfi Lemon, Bergamot
Heart Notes: Thyme, Sage
Base Notes: Tobacco, Vetiver, Patchouli
Open has a relatively concise note pyramid, but each stage plays a clear role. Citrus and lavender establish freshness, aromatic herbs create its distinctive middle, and tobacco, vetiver, and patchouli provide the dry masculine foundation.
That simplicity is one of its strengths. Open does not need a long list of notes to create a recognizable identity.
Is Open by Roger & Gallet for men, women, or unisex?
Open was created and marketed as a men's fragrance. Both Fragrantica and Parfumo classify the original 1985 Eau de Toilette as a fragrance for men.
Its lavender, thyme, sage, tobacco, vetiver, patchouli, lemon, and bergamot combination reflects the traditional masculine fragrance vocabulary of the period.
By modern standards, anyone who enjoys aromatic tobacco and vetiver fragrances could wear it, but its overall personality remains distinctly classic masculine.
How long does Open by Roger & Gallet last?
Open typically provides approximately 7 to 10 hours of wear for many users, although performance varies depending on skin chemistry, temperature, application, and bottle age. South Beach Perfumes currently gives the same general longevity range for the fragrance.
The citrus portion naturally fades first, while the tobacco, patchouli, and vetiver remain for considerably longer.
Later in the wearing experience, Open becomes drier and more intimate, leaving a woody, earthy tobacco character closer to the skin.
Because Open has been available for decades, older bottles can perform differently depending on how they were stored. Heat, sunlight, and prolonged poor storage can affect both scent and longevity.
How strong is the projection of Open?
Open has moderate to moderately strong projection, particularly during the first few hours.
The combination of lavender, citrus, thyme, sage, tobacco, patchouli, and vetiver produces a noticeable scent trail without relying on the dense sweetness commonly used to create projection in modern fragrances.
During the opening, the citrus and lavender create the largest scent bubble. As the fragrance develops, the projection becomes warmer, drier, and more tobacco-focused.
It has enough presence to be noticed, but a controlled application prevents it from becoming overwhelming.
What fragrance family is Open by Roger & Gallet?
Open is best classified as a woody aromatic fragrance with tobacco, herbal, citrus, earthy, and fresh spicy characteristics. Fragrantica classifies it as Woody Aromatic, while Parfumo emphasizes its spicy, woody, earthy, green, and citrus character.
It also has qualities associated with traditional aromatic fougère perfumery because of its prominent lavender and herbs, although its tobacco, patchouli, and vetiver base gives it a darker personality than a conventional clean fougère.
The fragrance effectively moves through three stages:
Fresh citrus and lavender.
Dry aromatic herbs.
Smoky tobacco, vetiver, and patchouli.
That progression explains why Open can initially smell relatively bright before becoming significantly darker and earthier.
What seasons is Open best for?
Open is best suited to fall, winter, and cool spring weather.
Fall may be its strongest season because tobacco, vetiver, patchouli, thyme, and sage naturally complement cooler air.
Winter also works extremely well. The dry tobacco base feels richer in cold temperatures, while lavender and citrus prevent the fragrance from becoming overly heavy.
Cool spring evenings allow the aromatic herbs and citrus to stand out more prominently.
Open can be worn during summer, but a lighter application is recommended. Tobacco, patchouli, and vetiver may feel considerably heavier in very hot or humid conditions.
Is Open better for daytime or nighttime?
Open works during both daytime and nighttime, although it leans slightly toward evening wear and cooler-weather daytime use.
During the day, its lemon, bergamot, lavender, thyme, and sage feel crisp and confident.
At night, the tobacco, vetiver, and patchouli become more prominent, giving the fragrance a darker and more sophisticated personality.
South Beach Perfumes recommends Open particularly for evening wear, fall, winter, crisp spring nights, formal settings, semi-formal occasions, and nights out.
What occasions should Open be worn for?
Open works particularly well for:
- Evening dinners
- Date nights
- Fall and winter gatherings
- Professional settings
- Semi-formal occasions
- Formal events
- Weekend wear
- Nights out
- Holiday gatherings
- Outdoor cool-weather events
- Vintage-inspired styling
- Everyday wear for men who prefer classic fragrances
- Situations where you want a distinctive masculine scent
Its versatility depends heavily on application. Two sprays can make Open feel restrained and professional, while a larger application emphasizes its stronger tobacco and earthy character.
What age range is Open best suited for?
There is no required age for Open, but its classic aromatic tobacco character will probably appeal most strongly to men in their 30s and older, along with younger fragrance enthusiasts who specifically enjoy traditional men's colognes.
A man in his 20s who appreciates lavender, tobacco, vetiver, patchouli, herbs, and vintage fragrances may enjoy Open considerably more than someone twice his age who wears only modern sweet or aquatic colognes.
The important distinction is taste rather than age.
Open does not smell juvenile, sugary, or trend-driven. It has a confident and mature personality that will appeal most to someone comfortable wearing a fragrance with clear aromatic and tobacco character.
Is Open office appropriate?
Yes. Open can be very office appropriate when applied conservatively.
Its lavender, citrus, herbs, vetiver, and tobacco give it a polished traditional masculinity that fits professional settings well.
For normal office wear, approximately two sprays should be sufficient.
In smaller enclosed spaces or fragrance-sensitive offices, one spray may be enough because tobacco, thyme, sage, and patchouli can become noticeable around other people.
Is it good for dates? Yes. Open is particularly good for cooler-weather dates when you want something confident, mature, and masculine rather than sweet or playful. The tobacco, vetiver, and patchouli become especially attractive as the scent settles closer to the skin.
Is it a safe blind buy? Moderately safe for someone who already enjoys classic men's fragrances, tobacco, lavender, vetiver, patchouli, aromatic herbs, and traditional fougère styles. It is not a particularly safe blind buy for someone whose collection consists primarily of modern aquatic, fruity, gourmand, or blue fragrances.
What fragrances smell similar to Open by Roger & Gallet?
Open has a distinctive combination of citrus, aromatic herbs, dry tobacco, vetiver, and patchouli, so there is no exact replacement. However, several fragrances available from South Beach Perfumes explore related classic masculine territory.
The Baron by LTL: Classic Lavender, Herbs, Spice and Tobacco
The Baron is one of the most natural South Beach Perfumes alternatives for someone who enjoys Open. It opens with lavender, bergamot, lemon, coriander, and basil, moves through pepper, nutmeg, geranium, and vetiver, then settles into vanilla, sandalwood, and tobacco.
The relationship is easy to understand. Both fragrances combine lavender and citrus with herbs, vetiver, and tobacco.
Open is drier, smokier, and earthier because patchouli plays a larger role.
The Baron is warmer, spicier, and slightly softer because sandalwood and vanilla smooth the tobacco base.
Herrera for Men by Carolina Herrera: A More Refined Aromatic Tobacco Alternative
Herrera for Men provides another strong option for anyone attracted to Open's aromatic tobacco character. Lemon, lavender, rosemary, and neroli create a fresh herbal opening before cloves and geranium lead into tobacco, sandalwood, and ambergris.
Herrera feels smoother and more polished.
Open is more herbal, earthy, and austere.
Both fragrances offer the combination of aromatic freshness and tobacco warmth that defined an important period of men's perfumery.
Quorum by Antonio Puig: Darker Tobacco, Patchouli and Woods
Quorum is the strongest choice for someone who enjoys the darker side of Open. Its composition emphasizes woods, tobacco, leather, oakmoss, amber, pine, and patchouli, producing a rugged and unmistakably classic masculine scent.
Open begins considerably fresher because of lemon, bergamot, and lavender.
Quorum is darker, greener, woodier, and more leathery.
Both ultimately move toward tobacco, patchouli, and earthy masculine depth, making Quorum particularly appealing to someone who enjoys Open's drydown and wants something even more assertive.
What is the difference between available concentrations of Open?
The original Open is primarily known in Eau de Toilette form, including the version offered by South Beach Perfumes. Historical references also document an Open After Shave.
The Eau de Toilette is the primary fragrance concentration and provides the complete development from citrus and lavender through aromatic herbs into tobacco, vetiver, and patchouli.
The After Shave was designed as a lighter grooming product rather than a stronger perfume concentration and would generally offer less longevity and projection than the Eau de Toilette.
It is also important not to confuse later products such as Open Black, Open White, and Open Gold with different concentrations of the original Open. They are separate fragrances and flankers with their own compositions. Open Black and Open White appeared in 2013, while Open Gold appeared later.
For someone looking for the classic 1985 combination of lavender, lemon, bergamot, thyme, sage, tobacco, vetiver, and patchouli, the original Open Eau de Toilette is the version to seek.
Learn more about fragrance concentrations.
Is Open by Roger & Gallet discontinued?
Open appears to be discontinued from regular production, although remaining inventory continues to appear through fragrance retailers and distributors.
Parfumo currently identifies the original 1985 Eau de Toilette as apparently discontinued.
The distinction is important because discontinued does not mean unavailable. Fragrance distributors and specialty retailers may continue carrying authentic inventory long after regular production has stopped.
That is particularly common with established fragrances such as Open that spent many years in international distribution.
When was Open by Roger & Gallet released?
Open was released in 1985. Both Fragrantica and Parfumo identify 1985 as the launch year of the original men's Eau de Toilette.
Its release date helps explain the composition.
Men's perfumery during this period often used lavender, herbs, tobacco, mosses, leather, vetiver, patchouli, and woods much more prominently than many contemporary mainstream fragrances.
Open is an excellent representation of that era while remaining more streamlined than some of the decade's largest powerhouse colognes.
Who created Open by Roger & Gallet?
A specific individual perfumer responsible for Open is not reliably identified in the major public fragrance references reviewed for this guide.
Roger & Gallet released the fragrance in 1985, but Fragrantica and Parfumo document the fragrance, year, notes, and classification without naming a perfumer.
Without dependable documentation, it would be misleading to assign Open to a particular perfumer.
For older fragrances, missing perfumer attribution is not unusual. Many compositions from previous decades were marketed primarily under the fragrance house rather than around the individual nose who created them.
How many sprays of Open should be used?
For most situations, 2 to 4 sprays is a good starting point.
For office wear, use approximately 1 to 2 sprays.
For normal daytime wear, 2 to 3 sprays should provide enough presence.
For evenings, dinners, or cooler outdoor settings, 3 to 4 sprays can work well.
Someone wearing a particularly strong older bottle should begin with less.
Open does not benefit from excessive application. Tobacco, patchouli, thyme, sage, and vetiver have enough personality that a controlled amount usually creates a more refined effect.
Is Open by Roger & Gallet authentic?
Yes. Open sold by South Beach Perfumes is an authentic Roger & Gallet fragrance. South Beach Perfumes states that it sells authentic original brand-name fragrances and does not sell counterfeit, imitation, or knockoff products.
Authenticity is particularly important when buying older or discontinued fragrances because shoppers may encounter bottles through secondary marketplaces with unclear origins or storage histories.
Variations in packaging, bottle appearance, or scent between production periods do not automatically indicate that a fragrance is counterfeit. Older fragrances may have experienced packaging updates or formulation changes during their lifespan.
Learn more about our product guarantee policy.
Who should buy Open by Roger & Gallet?
Open is particularly well suited for someone who:
- Enjoys classic men's fragrances
- Likes tobacco notes
- Appreciates lavender
- Enjoys lemon and bergamot openings
- Likes thyme and sage
- Prefers dry fragrances over sugary ones
- Enjoys vetiver
- Likes earthy patchouli
- Collects fragrances from the 1980s
- Wants something different from modern blue colognes
- Prefers traditional masculine fragrance styles
- Enjoys aromatic woody fragrances
- Wants a distinctive fall or winter fragrance
- Appreciates fragrances that become darker as they dry down
- Likes vintage tobacco colognes
- Wants something less commonly worn today
Open is especially appealing for someone who thinks tobacco fragrances have become too sweet. Its tobacco sits alongside herbs, vetiver, and patchouli rather than vanilla, caramel, or gourmand notes.
Who may not like Open?
Open may not be the best choice for someone who prefers:
- Sweet vanilla fragrances
- Fruity colognes
- Aquatic fragrances
- Modern blue fragrances
- Candy-like gourmands
- Extremely clean skin scents
- Tropical fragrances
- Lightweight summer colognes
- Very youthful fragrance styles
- Smooth amber-heavy compositions
Anyone who dislikes tobacco, patchouli, thyme, sage, or vetiver should also approach Open cautiously.
Its dry herbal quality can feel distinctly vintage to someone accustomed to contemporary designer releases.
That vintage character is not a weakness. It is central to what makes Open distinctive.
Final South Beach Perfumes Expert Review
Open by Roger & Gallet deserves more attention than it receives today. Its straightforward 1985 composition demonstrates how much personality can be created from a relatively small group of carefully chosen notes.
The fragrance begins with lavender, lemon, and bergamot, creating an opening that initially feels familiar to anyone who knows traditional men's cologne. Then thyme and sage begin changing the direction. The freshness becomes greener, drier, and more herbal. Finally, tobacco, vetiver, and patchouli take over and transform Open into something considerably darker.
That progression is what makes the fragrance memorable.
Open is sometimes described simply as a tobacco fragrance, but that description misses much of what makes it special. Tobacco does not dominate from beginning to end. Instead, the fragrance earns its way toward tobacco through citrus, lavender, and herbs, allowing the drydown to feel like a natural conclusion rather than an isolated accord.
It also provides an interesting contrast with contemporary men's fragrances. Many current releases depend on sweet amber materials, vanilla, aquatic freshness, or powerful synthetic woods to create immediate impact. Open works differently. Its appeal comes from recognizable aromatic materials and a dry earthy base.
For men who already love traditional fragrances, Open can feel immediately familiar yet distinctive. For younger collectors exploring vintage men's perfumery, it offers an excellent example of how masculine fragrance smelled before the modern blue and gourmand categories took over much of the mainstream market.
Its tobacco, vetiver, patchouli, lavender, thyme, sage, lemon, and bergamot combination will not appeal to everyone. That is part of its charm. Open was not built to smell anonymous.
For someone seeking a classic masculine fragrance with dry tobacco, herbal freshness, earthy woods, and genuine 1980s character, Open by Roger & Gallet remains an overlooked fragrance worth knowing.
Explore our Ultimate Guide to Finding Your Signature Scent.
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